![]() That's just what works for me an my style. ON3P, for instance, does a lot of detuning at the factory and I've only needed to smooth a little bit with a gummi on their skis. Other brands of skis don't come as sharp and I don't do as much. all of this is feathered into the adjacent areas, it's not like I just stop with the stone at one point and start in with the file. detune heavily with a file at a 45 from taper point to tip/tail ![]() detune moderately with a diamond stone from the rocker contact point to the taper point Just enough to knock the sharp edge down a little. detune the ENTIRE ski, including sidecut underfoot, with a soft gummy stone. My methodology is pretty close to what SiSt describes. Praxis come from the factory really, really sharp. I like a ski that has a predictable edge that will hold when needed, but also break free and slide effortlessly, and I absolutely cannot stand a ski that tries to turn before I tell it to. My personal preference is NOT a sharp ski. Not sure what happened there, but I've never had it happen on a pair of skis that came with a factory tune.Īs this thread shows, detuning is a matter of personal preference. One pair got tuned by a maggot shop in Utah and skied great the other pair got tuned by the shop at home that I only use in a pinch and were basically unskiable without SERIOUS detuning. There was only one exception to this for me, and it was a pair of prototype Kusalas that splat rushed out the door to get us without a factory tune on them. I've made new skis too dull by being impatient and taking 5 passes with a gummi stone instead of one at a time. I guess I like my skis sharp because I don't seem detune except the tapered part and sometimes right where the taper ends (depending on ski shape). I've only ever used a soft gray gummi to detune, but that's just me. Create a white-trash spoon! Also: don't touch the sidecut until you ski them. A 2 or in some cases 3 degree base edge bevel can be applied to the tapered sections of a modern ski to give it the loose, drifty feeling you want.īump that base edge bevel up, then give the taper 10-12 passes on each edge with a gummi and ski them before you do anything drastic or irreversible to the edges.Īgree with this. If you're experiencing hookiness or grabbiness, start by increasing the base edge bevel in the tapered sections of the ski before you go ruining the edge by running a file over it at 45 degrees. I recommend doing only a mild de-tune of the tapered sections of your skis. And then how much is the real question? Just how rounded off/dull should they be? Still be able to shave off some fingernail with the edge, or not be able to anymore? If anyone has a good camera even and could take a pic that would be appreciated. I also have a soft grey gummi but that isn't going to do much at all (Maybe get a blue extra hard one perhaps?). So first off, what should I use to detune it? I have a chrome file, diamond stones (100, 200, 400, 600), and a pocket stone. (though I'm not going to worry about it much because I do some park and use them primarily for that and messing around/easy days). ![]() I did do my ON3P Jeronimos a while ago- but I think I way overdid it with a file and the edges are pretty rounded at the contact points on to the tips. Pretty much all of the skis are all mountain to powder skis, narrowest is 100 underfoot. Set everything at 1/2.īefore I start waxing, I am going to detune the contacts points as per a lot of people's recommendations. Think I got that all down pretty good, edges seem nice and I did a lot of research on edge tuning. Just finished tuning the last of 10 pairs of skis for myself and family. First off I did search- and there are various posts about this in lots of different threads, but just wanted to consolidate some info here and ask up front to get some consensus. ![]()
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